Black Hills National Forest

Understand

The Black Hills of South Dakota are a lone series of mountains in the middle of the Great Plains. The nearest other mountains, the Bighorn Mountains, are about 100 mi to the west. The nearest mountains to the east or south are several thousand miles away. It was formed by unknown means when some kind of 'uplift' occurred many millions of years ago.

The Black Hills are possibly named black because of the Ponderosa Pine trees that grow there; young trees have black bark that turns orange as the trees mature.

The Black Hills are sacred to Lakota people and were a refuge during harsh seasons on the plains. The hills unique ecosystem also provided many plants not found on the prairies that could be used for foodmaking or medicine. Nowadays the Lakota live mostly on the Pine Ridge Indian reservation a few miles to the south.

Tourism is a big business in the Black Hills. In summer the temperatures rise and tourists flood in for a variety of reasons. Thus there are many touristy type shops, restaurants, casinos and so forth usually with a western theme, banking on the 'Wild West' image of Deadwood and the surrounding area.

• Black Hills National Forest website

History

The Black Hills were frequented by many tribes in the past, including Ponca, Kiowa Apache, Arapaho, Kiowa and Cheyenne. After conquering the Cheyenne in 1776, the Lakota Sioux took the territory of the Black Hills, which became central to their culture.

In the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851 (the Horse Creek Treaty) the United States acknowledged that the Black Hills were Indian territory and did not claim any part of it. The treaty soon failed, the definitive breakdown caused by the gold rush of 1858. Competition for land and resources, and killing of buffalo, drove some tribes out of the area into territory of other tribes and lead to fighting between the Sioux and the Crow, and with the government. A new Treaty of Fort Laramie (the Sioux Treaty of 1868) was signed, ending the Red Cloud's War. The treaty exempted the Black Hills from all white settlement "forever". However, when gold was discovered there in 1874, miners swept into the area. The US government took the Black Hills and forcibly relocated the Lakota, following the Great Sioux War of 1876, to smaller reservations.

Unlike most of South Dakota, the Black Hills were settled by European Americans primarily from population centers to the west and south of the region, from earlier gold boom locations.

Landscape

The Black Hills stand in contrast to the wide sweeping prairies of western South Dakota, as they are covered with mostly Ponderosa or Lodgepole Pine. Stands of Aspen can also be found within the forest.

Most of the Black Hills gently roll from 5000-6000 ft in elevation, however many peaks in the south central hills are over 7000 feet above sea level. Black Elk Peak (known before 2016 as Harney Peak) is the tallest mountain at 7242 ft, which is also the highest point of South Dakota.

In the southern hills, trees are sparse, and prairie grasses prevail. This is also where most of the larger cave systems are located, such as Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument.

Minerals of many types are found in abundance throughout the Black Hills, commonly found are: granite, muscovite, and quartz. Gold and silver were originally found in great amounts in the northern areas near the Wyoming-South Dakota border.

Flora and fauna

North American Bison (buffalo), mountain goats, mule deer, cougar, and the occasional donkey are abundant, especially in the southern-central portion of the Black Hills.

Prairie grasses, ponderosa pine, aspen, and numerous types of wildflowers such as prairie coneflower can be found within the Black Hills.

Climate

Visitor information

Fees and permits

Aside from camping fees and hunting permits, the national forest is free for all to enjoy.

Get around

The Black Hills National Forest is one of the most road-built national forests in the country. Due to the odd history of South Dakota, the forest service land is patchworked in and out with private land, state highways, forest service roads, etc., through the area.

Stay safe

Wildlife poses the greatest threat in the Hills. Keep your distance.

• Bison roam free in the region, and herds frequently cross and block highways. They are temperamental and unpredictable; if you get stuck in a line of cars backed up by a herd, stay in the car, roll your eyes, and wait for them to cross. Do not leave the car to approach the animals. A docile-looking bison can turn into over a ton of enraged, fast-moving muscle and horns before you know it and with no obvious provocation.
• In the rare event you encounter a mountain lion, talk and make yourself look as big and scary as possible. Walk away backwards very carefully and slowly. Never show the back of your neck to a lion. Mountain lion sightings are becoming more prevalent.
• Rattlesnakes are not aggressive unless they are messed with. Be very careful not to surprise one when climbing. Encounters between hikers and rattlers are uncommon but not unknown, and the way to deal with an encounter varies according to circumstances. If you actually see the snake, back away from it a short distance (8-10 feet at most); rattlers can only strike about half their body length, so there's no need to go running in terror. If you don't see it but only hear it, best is to stop in your tracks until you know where it is, then back away. If you're hiking in a group, make sure your fellow hikers know the snake is there (say "Snake"), but there's nothing to get hysterical about. Pay extra attention when hiking at dawn or dusk, when the snakes are hunting (mice, not you).
• The best reminder for people is that wildlife is just that - wild. Even the more innocent looking animals of the Black Hills like the Prairie Dogs are not pets, and tourists should avoid trying to touch these animals or crowding their holes. Rabies is common.

Go next

• Custer State Park offers a number of nice hiking trails, including several routes to Black Elk Peak, highest point in the state of South Dakota. Several of the trails that start in the state park continue on into the national forest's Black Elk Wilderness.
• Deadwood is possibly America's most storied small town from the wild frontier days.
• Mount Rushmore National Memorial is a short drive away, and so is the even larger Crazy Horse Memorial.
• Rapid City is a transportation hub for the region. It has a few museums, and plenty of cheap hotels and restaurants (chain and local).
• Sturgis is the home of the famed Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in August.
• Wall has Wall Drug, whose ubiquitous signs will be more than familiar to any visitor driving on Interstate 90.