El Malpais National Monument

Understand

History

El Malpais National Monument and Conservation Area was established in 1987. The national monument protects 114,277 acres of volcanic landscape, while the adjacent national conservation area protects an additional 263,000 acres. The area has been inhabited for over 10,000 years, and historic and archeological sites provide reminders of past times. To this day Indian groups including the Acoma, Laguna, Zuni, and the Ramah Navajo still utilize the park for traditional activities including gathering herbs and medicines, paying respect, and renewing ties.

Landscape

El Malpais (pronounced el-mal-pie-EES) means "the badlands", so named due to the volcanic features such as lava flows, cinder cones, pressure ridges and complex lava tube cave systems that dominate the landscape. Sandstone bluffs and mesas border the eastern side, providing access to vast wilderness. Elevation in the park ranges from 6500 to 8300 ft. The most recent lava flow emanated from McCarty's Crater within the last 2,000 to 3,000 years, so the park remains a geologically active area.

Flora and fauna

While known more for its geologic features than for its wildlife, the park is home to golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, prairie falcons, great-horned owls, black bears, mule deer, elk, coyotes, mountain lions and bobcats. Less cuddly residents include rattlesnakes, scorpions, black widow spiders and brown recluse spiders. The park was also the home of a transplanted bison herd from 1993 until 1995, but the herd's preference for roaming onto private lands led to their relocation. Some of the oldest douglas firs on earth live in the monument: one dead tree was dated at over 2,000 years old!

Climate

The weather in northwestern New Mexico is unpredictable and visitors should be prepared for all conditions throughout the year. Thunderstorms are a common occurrence during summer afternoons and lightning poses a hazard to hikers. Winter snowstorms are common and nights are cold with below freezing temperatures.

Visitor information

• Park website

Get in

By car

El Malpais is south of the town of Grants. Two major state highways border the monument and conservation area and both are accessed via Interstate 40. Exit 89, east of Grants, will take you along NM 117 which forms the eastern park boundary. BLM's El Malpais Ranger Station is 9 miles south of this exit and is open daily. Exit 85 at Grants will take you to the Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center, a multi-agency facility, south of exit 85. Exit 81, west of Grants, will take you along NM 53 which forms the northwestern park boundary. NPS's El Malpais Information Center is 23 miles south of this exit and is open daily.

By plane

The nearest major airport is in Albuquerque, about 90 miles (150 km) away and only slightly farther from El Malpais than Gallup is. Since you're going to have to rent a car or SUV anyway if you fly, you might as well get it in Albuquerque and drive. From the Albuquerque airport, drive north on Interstate 25 to Interstate 40 and continue as above.

Fees and permits

There are no entrance fees charged for visiting the park.

Get around

By car

State highways NM 117 and NM 53 provide access to many areas in the monument. County Road 42, a dirt road, provides access to the backcountry's primitive dirt roads. These roads may be impassable when wet, and travel is restricted to high clearance vehicles and those with four-wheel drive. Check at the ranger station for current road conditions before visiting the park's backcountry.

By bicycle

A mountain bike is a good alternative to driving when exploring the park's backcountry.

By foot

Hiking routes exist throughout the monument. Most traverse lava flows and are marked with rock cairns. Few dirt routes exist. Backcountry hiking and cave exploration is permitted, but no water is available. Topographical maps and a compass or GPS unit are strongly suggested for backcountry exploration. Please stop by a visitor center for the park's caving policy and information prior to entering any cave. Entry to most caves requires permits in advance of your visit. Use extreme caution hiking on lava terrain - it's sharp and unstable! Please don't hike or cave alone.

Stay safe

Visitors planning to explore lava tube caves need to come prepared with warm clothing, protective headgear, at least three sources of light, sturdy footwear, and leather gloves. Do not take these warnings lightly; if you lose your light source even a short distance from a cave entrance it is extremely likely that you will become disoriented in the darkness and unable to find your way out. Similarly, the cave floor is rocky, uneven and often slippery, making sturdy footwear is an absolute necessity to avoid foot and ankle injuries.

Sturdy hiking boots are required when hiking on lava terrain and daypacks with water, snacks, raingear, first aid kit and sunscreen are suggested. The heat while on lava flows can be intense, so plan on drinking at least one gallon of water per person per day. In addition, be aware that progress over lava flows is slow, that lava is sharp and can easily tear apart tennis shoes, and that some sections of lava are unstable and may simply be thin crusts covering sinkholes. Traveling solo on the lava is a very bad idea, as a broken leg can spell certain doom. Cellular service is nonexistent beyond the very northern borders of the park. It is advisable to let someone know your itinerary in case you turn up missing. No joke: more than one person has been lost upon the veritable black sea. The dangers cannot be overstressed.

Less common park dangers include rattlesnakes, scorpions and spiders, which can be easily avoided by being cautious in rocky areas; these creatures crawl under rocks to avoid the sun, so be cautious when reaching into crevices or overturning rocks. In addition, the area around McCarty's crater was once used as a military bombing range, and while unlikely, it is possible that unexploded ordnance may be encountered if traveling in this remote location. Any munitions that are encountered should not be handled and should be reported to rangers.

Go next

• El Morro National Monument. Jst off NM Highway 53 about 30 miles west of the park, El Morro protects a Puebloan dwelling as well as a sandstone bluff on which ancient people, early Spanish explorers, and pioneers carved inscriptions. Fee $3 (Park Pass applies) for day use; there is a small (9 sites), primitive campground ($5/night fee during summer, free off-season when water is turned off).
• Grants. About 10 miles north of the park, this town offers food, lodging, and supplies for visitors to El Malpais.