Frenchman Coulee

Understand

History

Between 5 and 16 million years ago, a series of volcanic eruptions from what is now the Yellowstone Hot Spot periodically flooded the Columbia Basin with thousands of feet of molten basalt.

Much more recently, during the Ice Age between 12,000 and 18,000 years ago, a glacial meltwater flood breached the Grand Coulee. During the first stages of flooding, the water levels between the flood-filled Quincy Basin and the Columbia River immediately west of Evergreen Ridge approached 700 feet over just a few miles. This incredible difference in water levels caused floodwaters to relentlessly eat away the underlying rock layers. Erosion continued for at least as long as it took for the water level in the Columbia Valley to rise to about 1200 feet, or until the floodwater supply was exhausted.

Landscape

Sandy land surrounded by steep cliff walls. The Coulee exhibits a waterfall near the North Alcove as well as a small stream that flows into the dry bed of the Coulee. The waterfall has been called Frenchman Waterfall, Frenchman's Coulee Waterfall, and Stolp Falls among other names, though consistent record of the actual name is difficult to find. There is a set of basalt columns commonly frequented by climbers located between the north and middle alcove of the Coulee. Frenchman Coulee terminates near the edge of the Columbia River Gorge and is located directly north of Echo Basin.

Flora and fauna

Desert brush and small species of cactus exist in the canyon. Some reeds and more lush growth can be found along the small stream leading into the canyon and around the falls.

Climate

Frenchman Coulee receives very little rain at any time of the year. The summers are typically hot and windy making spring and fall the best time to visit the area. Fog has been known to roll through the Coulee. High winds are also present at times in the area, sometimes arriving quickly and with little to no warning.

Get in

Frenchman Coulee is 1 mi northwest of Interstate 90, directly across the Columbia River from Vantage, between Ellensburg and Moses Lake.

From I-90, take Exit 143 to Silica Road. Head north for about 1/2 miles, then turn left onto Vantage Highway.

Fees and permits

Frenchman Coulee is administered by Washington State Parks. State Parks require a Discover Pass to park at. The pass is $10 a day, or $30 a year. Order online, buy from an outdoors retailer, or pick up from a kiosk at the entrance to the more popular state parks.

Get around

The main road through the park is paved, though other auxiliary roads are not. Most campsites are accessible to normal cars, but a few are difficult to access without a high-clearance vehicle.

The Coulee is about 3 miles from end to end, and makes a good day-hike.

Stay safe

Stay on established trails, respect raptor nesting closures and use a "leave-no-trace" environmental ethic. The ecosystem here is fragile, and there are environmental hazards off-trail.

There are rattlesnakes in the area. While they are not aggressive or too numerous, they are there.

Rockfall sometimes occurs on the Vantage Highway.

The bottom of the coulee, on the south side near the cliffs, has been used as a dumping ground for automobiles, broken glass, rusted wires and other trash, so watch your step. A barbed wire fence also runs north to south across the coulee and is not always easy to spot. It does not obstruct the dirt road at the bottom of the coulee.

Go next

Try the other rock climbing areas of Washington:

• Index — easy access to a big wall
• Leavenworth — the "Bavarian" village nestled in the mountains
• Mazama, outside of Winthrop — cragging next to the huge routes of North Cascades National Park
• North Bend — the most accessible rock to Seattle
• Tieton, outside of Yakima — also features column basalts