Grand Canyon

Understand

The canyon is an overwhelming experience, and nothing can prepare a visitor for the sight. The Grand Canyon is a massive canyon carved over several million years by the Colorado River. Grand Canyon National Park boasts an elevation change of nearly 7,000 ft from Point Imperial (at nearly 9,000 ft) to the banks of Lake Mead (at just over 2,000 ft). The canyon is over a mile (1610 m) deep, from rim to river. In spots the rock layers exposed in the canyon display over two billion years of geologic history.

History

Grand Canyon National Park was founded as Grand Canyon National Monument in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt, and became a national park in 1919. Today the park contains over 1.2 e6acre, slightly less than the entire state of Delaware, and in 2018 received about 6.4 million visitors.

Landscape

Throughout the past century, hundreds of authors have attempted to depict the enormous landscape that is Grand Canyon. Not surprisingly, words most often fail to invoke the sense of awe and wonder that many visitors experience. Edward Abbey, a noted Southwest author, once penned: "Those who love it call it the canyon. The canyon. As if there were no other topographic feature on the face of the Earth".

There are, of course, other canyons on the planet. Some are longer, others wider, and there are even some that are deeper. Canyon visitors are often surprised to learn that Grand Canyon sets no records for sheer size. It is, however, simply regarded by most as the "grandest" canyon of them all.

Geologically, the canyon extends from Lees Ferry near the city of Page and the Arizona/Utah border to the Grand Wash Cliffs near Las Vegas, a distance of 277 mi. It ranges in width from about a quarter mile to over 18 mi wide. In places the canyon is over a mile (1.6 km) deep.

However, it is not the statistics that define this landscape as "grand", but rather a combination of factors. The desert environment and a lack of herbaceous ground cover reveal a geologic story that is unparalleled. Surprisingly, the rock layers displayed at Grand Canyon show little sign of wear. The layers have been preserved almost perfectly, as though they were layers in a cake. Nowhere else on Earth displays so many volumes of the planet's history in such pristine condition.

The resulting landscape provides visitors with some of the most magnificent and unsurpassed vistas on the planet.

Flora and fauna

The most famous animal in the park may be the rare California Condor. They can occasionally be seen flying near Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. Common bird life includes Canyon Wrens, Stellar's Jays (with their peaked caps), swallows, hummingbirds, and the playful and entertaining raven.

Mule deer are common. Some of the largest elk in North America can be found in the national park, and in the adjacent Kaibab National Forest. Desert bighorn sheep are also seen on occasion, mainly in the inner canyon.

You'll often spot coyotes no matter where you are in the park, and if you're lucky, you'll get to hear them sing. Other predators are cougars (aka mountain lions and many other names) and bobcats. Black bears are rare, and they generally stay away from the inhabited areas.

Some of the smaller creatures that can be found in the inhabited areas of the park are the ringtail (called a cat, but not in the cat family), which like to live in the rafters of some of the historic buildings on the rim. They are quick and stealthy, but they often forget how visible that tail is, and you'll see it hanging out over a beam.

A favorite with visitors is the Abert's squirrel with their tufted ears. Other varieties of squirrels and chipmunks are also popular. They seem tame and like to beg for food behind the Bright Angel Lodge, near the Ice Cream fountain. But heed the warnings and resist the urge. One of the most common injuries in the park are squirrel bites.

You might also see the common striped skunk, and if lucky, you might even see the rarer western spotted skunk (usually at lower elevations). Skunks here are also habituated to humans and may seem tame, but they will react as all skunks do, so don't come up on them suddenly!

For the reptile family, there are variety of small lizards, and a few snakes. The most striking (in more ways than one) is the Grand Canyon rattlesnake; with its reddish (almost pink) coloring it neatly blends into the rocky terrain of the canyon. They are interesting to see as long as it is at a safe distance. Rattlesnakes are more afraid of you than you are of them. If given the chance, they will avoid any contact with humans. Most rattlesnake victims are young males that are chasing or trying to capture a snake.

Do not feed the animals. It is unhealthy for them, and may be unhealthy for you. A seemingly tame squirrel might bite you – they carry plague, rabies, etc. A deer or elk can charge at you without warning. If the animal is aware of your presence, you're too close.

Climate

Temperatures and weather within the canyon vary greatly by location. Temperatures on the North Rim are often 20–30°F (11–16°C) cooler than at the river. This is a land of extremes. It can be snowing at the rim, while others are comfortable sunbathing at the river. Conversely, it can be cool and comfortable at the rim in the summer, while temperatures at the river exceed 120°F. It is not unusual for local canyon guides to encounter neophyte hikers in desperate shape. Some die. An unusual number of fatalities occur among young people who overestimate their abilities. Due to the high altitude, snowfall is a regular occurrence on the rims during the winter months. The North Rim closes during the winter season.

July and August are monsoon season in Arizona and strong thunderstorms can sweep in quickly with lightning strikes every few minutes and sudden downpours. Flash floods can occur suddenly, even in areas where there is not immediate rain; rain can originate upstream and quickly rush downstream. Due to the elevation of the Grand Canyon rims, people are struck by lightning fairly regularly so take shelter indoors during storms.

Visitor information

• Park website

Get in

By car

The majority of visitors to the South Rim of the park arrive from the south on Arizona Route 64 (AZ 64, conjoined with US highway 180). Or, you can enter the South Rim from the east on AZ 64.

For the south entrance: from Flagstaff, you can take US Route 180 (US 180) northwest to Valle where it joins with AZ 64, and continue north to the South Rim; or take I-40 west toward Williams to the junction with AZ 64 and continue north to the South Rim. Both routes are approximately 80 mi. The approximately 60 mi on US 180 is a narrow 2-lane mountain road through a heavily forested area. The I-40 west is a wide multi-lane interstate for approximately 20 mi, to AZ 64 which is a slightly wider, less mountainous 2-lane highway, and the recommended route during winter weather. There are two lanes at this entrance reserved for pass and prepaid entrance fees (now lanes 1 and 4), which can be pre-purchased outside of the park at the National Geographic Theater/Visitor Center.

For the east entrance, take US 89 south from Page, AZ or north from Flagstaff to the junction with AZ 64 at Cameron. It is approximately 25 mi from the junction to the east entrance of the park, and approximately 25 mi from the east entrance to the South Rim village area.

Visitors to the North Rim use ALT US Route 89 (US 89A, not to be confused with AZ 89A south of Flagstaff) to AZ 67 (closed in winter). While the average distance across the canyon is only 10 mi, there are no roads or bridges or ferries, meaning the trip by car is a five-hour drive of 215 mi.

People visiting the Havasupai Indian Reservation use AZ 66, turning onto Indian Road 18 (which may appear on maps as BIA 18, or Hualapai Hilltop Highway) for approximately 60 mi. The road dead ends at Hualapai Hilltop, which is the trailhead for the town of Supai and its waterfalls (permit required in advance; it has reopened for 2023, but no new permits are available until 2024). There are no services along this route.

By plane

South rim

• Tusayan – Primarily used by private aircraft and companies who provide Grand Canyon air tours. Grand Canyon Airlines has flights from Boulder City in Nevada and charter flights to Page, AZ.

• Flagstaff Pulliam Airport (FLG) is the nearest commercial airport to the South Rim.

Many Grand Canyon visitors fly into one of two major metropolitan airports within half a day's drive of the South Rim:

• Las Vegas Harry Reid International Airport (LAS) – 275 mi west then north from the South Rim.
• Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (PHX) – 230 mi south from the South Rim.

North rim

• Page Municipal Airport PGA – 125 mi east from the North Rim, with flights to Las Vegas and Phoenix.
• Las Vegas – 275 mi west from the North Rim (via southern Utah).
• Phoenix – 360 km south from the North Rim (east around the canyon).

By bus

There are no commercial bus lines offering transportation to either rim, but several tour companies offer guided tours originating in Flagstaff, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Los Angeles and other locations, either directly to the South Rim or that include the South Rim as part of an itinerary, and a few offer tours which include a visit to the North Rim. There is a small shuttle service, Groome Transportation, which does carry passengers and luggage from the Flagstaff Amtrak station. The tickets for this shuttle may also be purchased from Amtrak.

By train

The Grand Canyon Railway operates a train ride from the town of Williams to the Grand Canyon Village (travel time is 2½ hours in each direction). The terminus at Grand Canyon Village is within walking distance of some accommodations. The train features a historic steam locomotive during the summer season, restored Pullman cars, and a staged old west style shootout. However, the Grand Canyon is not visible from the train. It is simply another option for traveling to the canyon, and takes about twice as long as driving to the canyon.

Amtrak's Southwest Chief, with trains operating daily between Chicago and Los Angeles, stops at Williams Junction 3 mi east of Williams town, with connections to the Grand Canyon Railway in Williams. There is a Thruway bus shuttling passengers from Williams Junction to Williams town.

Fees and permits

Entrance fees for Grand Canyon National Park are valid for seven days – you do not need a fee for the other Indigenous reservations. Fees as of 2020 are:

• $20 – individuals on foot or bike.
• $30 – motorcycles.
• $35 – private vehicle.
• $70 – Grand Canyon National Park Annual Pass.

Get around

South Rim

Several viewpoints and trailheads in the park have limited or no parking and must be reached using the park shuttle system. The National Park Service runs an extensive shuttle service on the South Rim with three interlocking routes. The service is free, and generally runs from before sunrise until after sunset, depending on the route. Service is more frequent from May through September and includes additional routes. In addition, during the summer the park service operates a shuttle from Tusayan into the park.

Horse and mule riders are required to follow a number of rules and restrictions while in the park, and must get a permit from the park service to keep animals in the park overnight.

West Rim

From March to November the West Rim Drive is not accessible to most private vehicles (handicap vehicles may request a variance at the entry gate). The park service runs a shuttle during this time. The shuttles are frequent but long lines form during the busy summer months.

Rim-to-Rim

Between the North and South Rims, there is no easy connection. By shuttle bus (for a fee), Trans-Canyon Shuttle offers a seasonal daily rim-to-rim shuttle, which runs from rim to rim, through Vermillion Cliffs, with a stop at Marble Canyon. By car, the shortest route is a five-hour drive around the east of the canyon and crossing the river by a bridge near Lees Ferry. By foot, it is a two-day hike across the canyon.

Stay safe

Hiking at the Grand Canyon often surprises people who attempt Inner Canyon trips. It can be hotter than you'd expect, colder than you'd expect, drier or wetter. A prepared hiker is better able to survive the extremes of the canyon. Even for short walks into the canyon keep in mind that it is a seducer: it seems easy hiking down into it but when you come back up you find that you have over-extended yourself. It's the opposite of climbing up a tall mountain, where you can stop and turn back when you get tired, knowing that the descent will be much easier.

• Take water.
• Respect the heat, plan for heat.
• Check the weather forecast, watch for storms.
• Take a paper map with you, and know how to read it. If using maps on your phone, download maps before you go.
• Cell phone service is unreliable in the wildness. You may be able to call 911 from some locations, but there is no guarantee. But in an emergency, always try 911: even if you have no service 911 may still connect with another carrier.
• Tell a responsible person not in your party where you are going and when you expect to return, so they can alert authorities in case of emergency.
• Know your limits.

In particular, do not attempt to hike to the bottom of the canyon and back in one day. Hundreds of hikers each year have to be rescued from the Inner Canyon due to exhaustion and dehydration. While the temperature on the canyon rim is cool due to its elevation, below the rim it can be very hot. The vertical distance from the bottom back up to the rim is nearly a mile straight up (1.5 km), in addition to the distance you travel horizontally. If you plan to go to the bottom of the canyon, spend the night (permit required), and take enough food, water, shelter, and other backcountry camping equipment to keep yourself safe and sound. If you don't have the equipment, don't go.

For an eye-opening look at the dangers of hiking in and around the canyon unprepared, Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon by Thomas M. Myers (long time resident doctor at the South Rim), and Michael P. Ghiglieri (biologist and river guide), describes the various ways in which visitors have lost their lives at the canyon. (ISBN 097009731X).

Don't throw rocks or coins from the rim – these can injure hikers below, and the metal in coins can poison wild animals.

If you're injured or need medical attention, the Grand Canyon Clinic (1 Clinic Road; +1 928-638-2551) at the South Rim provides urgent care.

Go next

While literally getting out of the chasm may be the most difficult part of your visit, getting out of the national park is relatively easy.

The Grand Canyon is part of the Grand Circle, which includes the Monument Valley, Mesa Verde National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Zion National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Natural Bridges National Monument, Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument, Hovenweep National Monument, Arches National Park, Canyon de Chelly National Monument and many other attractions in Northern Arizona and Utah's Canyon Country.

From the North Rim, destinations include Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks and the Grand Circle. The nearest major airport is in Las Vegas.

From the South Rim, travelers often head toward Flagstaff or Sedona. Further south is Phoenix, home to hiking at Camelback Mountain, golfing, MLB Spring Training and super hot weather. West is Las Vegas, home to casinos, shows and nightlife; Hoover Dam is enroute to Las Vegas.

Nearest major airports are in Phoenix and Las Vegas; however, there are small airports in Flagstaff and Page (for North Rim) as well.