Badlands National Park

Understand

The park is divided into two sections (on either side of State Route 44, which cuts through at the park's narrowest point):

• The North Unit, the most popular area with most of the easily-accessible attractions.
• The South Unit (also known as the Stronghold District), a largely-roadless backcountry on the Pine Ridge Reservation co-managed with the Oglala Sioux Tribe.

Natural history

During the youth of the Rocky Mountains, about 60 million years ago, large number of streams carried eroded soil, rock and other materials eastward from the range. These materials were deposited on the vast lowlands which are today called the Great Plains. Dense vegetation grew in these lowlands, then fell into swamps, and was later buried by new layers of sediments. Millions of years later, this plant material turned into lignite coal. Some of the plant life became petrified, and we can find large amounts of exposed petrified wood in the badlands. While sediments continued to be deposited, more streams cut down through the soft rock layers, carving the variety of mesas, buttes, rock formations, pinnacles, spires and valleys are the features of the badlands seen today.

Human history

For eleven thousand years humans used the area for hunting. They hunted bison, rabbits, and other animals.

Fossils hunters arrived after the 1840s. Trappers traveling from Fort Pierre to Fort Laramie collected fossils. One fossil ended up being described in the American Journal of Science. Within decades new species were being discovered.

Homesteaders arrived at the end of the 19th century and the US government removed the natives from their land. This culminated in the massacre at Wounded Knee, which is approximately 45 miles south of the park in the Pine Ridge Reservation.

The Dust Bowl of the 1930s prompted many homesteaders to move elsewhere. Some who stayed are still there today.

The United States Air Force took possession of more than 340,000 acres of the Pine Ridge Reservation and about 340 acres of what was then Badlands National Monument and used it extensively between 1942 and 1945 as a gunnery range. This is now the Stronghold unit of the park and is co-managed with the Oglala Sioux Tribe. Unexploded ordnance remains in the area.

Flora and fauna

While the badlands terrain may appear to be barren, there is a great variety of wildlife and plant life here. The minimal annual precipitation feeds the grasses and wildflowers of the badlands. The brilliant colors of the blooms add to the palette of grays, browns, reds, ochres and greens of the land. The wildlife includes nearly two hundred species of birds, (mule and white tail) deer, prairie dogs, pronghorn, big horn sheep, and bison. Other mammals in the park include bats, rabbits, and coyotes. The park has reintroduced the black footed ferret, the most endangered land mammal in North America, to the Sage Creek Wilderness area. Reptiles and amphibians include frogs, toads, and snakes.

Non-native species of plants

Dozens of non-native species of plants have been brought by settlers through deliberate or accidental means. The park is actively working to remove the non-native plants and restore the prairie to its original condition.

Climate

The park is windy. Summers are hot and winters are cold.

Winter begins in November, although blizzards in late October may occur. High temperatures around 40°F (4.4°C) with lows below 0°F (-18°C) and high winds creating much lower windchill. Snow is likely and blizzards are possible.

March is difficult. Temperatures may fluctuate dramatically within a few hours. Blizzards are still possible, and so is 60°F (15.5°C) weather.

Spring begins in April. With snow melting and April rains, the park is very wet. The unpaved roads can be difficult or impossible to pass and trails may be slippery and unpleasant. Temperatures at night is typically below freezing. The park receives most of its rain between April and June. Showers may be brief or last for days.

July is hot and dry. Daytime temperatures can surpass 90°F (32°C).

August is the hottest when temperatures can break 100°F (38°C). Evenings are about 75°F (24°C).

In September the temperatures begin to cool off in the second half of the month.

October is much cooler although a few days may break 80°F (27°C).

Geology

The badlands are formed by water and wind erosion, losing about an inch (2.54 centimeters) a year. About five millions years ago the land uplifted and triggered the erosion processes that created the badlands.

Paleontology

The fossils found in the park date from The Age of Mammals, including ancestors of the modern day rhinoceros, horse, dog, and others. Fossilized sea shells and turtle shells have also been found in the park. There are no dinosaur fossils in the park.

Approximately 30 million years ago the area was warmer and lush. Many mammals roamed the area and died in floods and quickly buried in sediment, providing an abundance of vertebrate fossils.

Digging and/or moving fossils or artifacts from their locations in the ground is prohibited by Federal law. Offenders are subject to heavy fines and possibly jail.

Visitor information

• Park website

Dogs and other pets are allowed in the park but only in developed areas such as campgrounds, parking lots, and along the roads. Leashes are required and must not be longer than 6 feet (1.8 meters). Pets are not allowed on the hiking trails. Dogs and other pets are not allowed in the Badlands Wilderness Area.

Digging and/or moving fossils or artifacts from their locations in the ground is prohibited by Federal law. Offenders are subject to heavy fines and possibly jail. If you find some fossils or artifacts, note all details, and then stop by the Cedar Pass Contact Station and make a report.

The park's goal of maintaining the prairie ecosystem requires using fire. Park visitors, however, should not start any fires anywhere in the park.

Get in

The park is about 50 miles southeast of Rapid City, the only large city within a few hours' drive.

By car

Interstate 90 passes near the north side of the park.

• Exit 131 (Interior) leads to the Northeast Entrance.
• Exit 110 (Wall) leads to the Pinnacles Entrance.

State Route 44 passes near the south side of the park and the Interior Entrance.

From Rapid City, both routes have a similar drive time to the Visitor Center in the east part of the park, but I-90 provides better access to the Pinnacles Entrance.

By plane

Rapid City Regional Airport (RAP) is served by five airlines with nonstop service to Minneapolis, Denver, Chicago, Phoenix, Las Vegas, and Salt Lake City. There are also seasonal direct flights to Charlotte and Orlando. Onsite car rental services are available.

By bus

Greyhound serves Rapid City.

Fees and permits

Entrance Fees as of 2020 are:

• $15 Individual (Hiking, Bicycling, etc.)
• $25 Motorcycle
• $30 Private Vehicle
• $50 Commercial Van, 7 to 15 passenger capacity
• $60 Commercial Minibus, 16 to 25 passenger capacity
• $150 Commercial Motorcoach, 26 or more passenger capacity

Members of the Oglala Sioux tribe can buy the 7-day pass at half price.

Get around

By car

The Badlands Loop Road, also designated State Route 240, is a 27 mi scenic drive that connects most of the attractions in the park. It is the only paved road in the park. The speed limit is 45 mph unless otherwise posted.

The Sage Creek Rim Road is an unpaved (but well-maintained) road leading to a few viewpoints west of the Pinnacles Entrance.

Pull off to allow faster traffic to pass, but only where there is sufficient space for your vehicle. Do not pull off onto the grass.

By bicycle

Bicycles are allowed only on designated roads (paved, gravel, and dirt) within the park. Off road bicycling, bicycling in the backcountry, or bicycling on hiking trails is prohibited. Bicycle racks are located at the Cedar Pass Lodge and some trailheads.

Remember to carry enough water and wear appropriate clothing and sun protection. Be sure to check road conditions, especially gravel and dirt roads.

By horse

A part of the Sage Creek Campground is designated for horses. However, no water is suitable for human consumption and horses unaccustomed to badlands water likely will not drink. Bring one gallon per person per day of water and five gallons per horse per day. Feed must be pellets or weed free hay; contact park staff for details. Hitching posts available and horses are not allowed to run free. Picket pins should be moved frequently to prevent overgrazing. Maximum stay is fourteen nights. There are no horse trails.

Stay safe

• Weather. Temperatures can exceed 100°F (38°C) in the summer, while winter temperatures can dip below 0°F (-18°C). Temperatures fluctuate through the day, sometimes widely. Thunderstorms and blizzards can come up suddenly. Rain makes many routes in the park impassible.
• Wildlife. The animals in the park are less of a threat to visitors who pay them the proper respect. However, ending up on the wrong end of a bison can mean a hospital stay or death for the park visitor. Visitors should also be wary of the venomous (but seldom deadly) prairie rattlesnakes.
• Prickly pear cactus. These small cacti hide in the prairie grass. Wear shoes with thick soles and watch your step. If their flowers are blooming, they are easier to spot.
• Water. There is no potable water in the park except at the visitor centers. Boiling, filtering, or treating with chemicals does not make the water drinkable.

Hiking and activities

• Exposure. Carry plenty of water (1 gallon per person per day), a hat, appropriate sunscreen, and sunglasses. Also consider that the park can be very windy.
• Getting lost. The vast areas of the park off the established trails can become very confusing. Good map reading and land navigation skills required.
• Unexploded ordnance. The Stronghold unit has any number of unexploded bombs and shells left over from the 1940s when the United States Air Force used the land as a gunnery range. When exploring the area keep an eye out. Do not touch any unexploded ordnance. Note the location and notify park rangers as soon as possible.

Go next

Nearby towns and attractions:

• Interior, 2 miles south of the park on Highway 44. Services and facilities include a post office, grocery store, gas stations, and auto service year round.
• Wall, 30 mi northwest of park headquarters. Motels, banking, pharmacy, medical clinic, gas, restaurants, and most services are available, especially the famous Wall Drug store.
• Rapid City, 75 miles west of the park headquarters.
• Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. This ICBM site could rain down nuclear devastation six thousand miles away in 30 minutes. Guided tours of launch control are available.

The Black Hills to the west feature a variety of popular sights and destinations:

• The Crazy Horse Memorial. A massive sculpture that is still being built on the side of a mountain to honor a famous Native chief.
• Mount Rushmore National Memorial. The faces of four famous American presidents carved into the side of a mountain.
• Custer State Park. Home to a large herd of bison as well as other wildlife. Scenic drives.
• Jewel Cave National Monument. Jewel Cave is the second longest known cave in the world.
• Wind Cave National Park.
• Black Hills National Forest.

There are other badlands areas elsewhere in the US and in Canada.