Big Sur

Understand

Big Sur begins a few miles south of Carmel and includes the small settlements of Palo Colorado Canyon, Big Sur Village (between Andrew Molera State Park and Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park), Posts, Lucia, and Gorda. It ends near San Simeon (where the Hearst Castle is located). When driving on Highway 1 through Big Sur, be alert for traffic conditions, especially during summer vacation periods and holiday weekends, when the northern portion of the highway can be congested. You can stop to admire the scenery at one of the many dirt turnouts and vista points along the route. When stopping at a viewpoint be sure that your vehicle is entirely off the roadway.

History

Three Native American tribes - the Ohlone, Esselen, and Salinan - are believed to have lived in Big Sur as hunter-gatherers prior to the arrival of Europeans. The Spanish explorer Juan Cabrillo was the first European to view the area when he sailed along the coast in 1542. Spaniards arrived on foot in 1769, but the high cliffs and rough terrain forced them inland. Monterey was settled in 1770, during which the Governor made only two lands grants in the area, Rancho El Sur and Rancho San Jose y Sur Chiquito. The ranchos were maintained by caretakers.

Mexico took control of the area when it gained independence from Spain in 1821, and in 1848 Mexico ceded California to the United States following the Mexican-American War. By 1862, several pioneers had moved into the area, although the inaccessibility of the area prevented any significant development.

The construction of the present-day Highway 1 began in 1919 using convict labor. Construction stopped in 1924 when funds were exhausted and resumed in 1928. Construction required 33 bridges to be built and thousands of tons of dynamite to blast the road through the coastal cliffs. The $10 million, unpaved Carmel-San Simeon Highway was finally opened in 1937. Over the years, Monterey County lawmakers and local residents have established extremely tough development restrictions, making it illegal to build almost anything within view of the highway and other public points. As of 2018, only about 1,000 residents live on the coast year-round.

Flora and fauna

Big Sur is the southernmost range of the world's tallest tree, the coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens), and thanks to the remoteness of the region many of the existing groves have never been logged. The critically-endangered California condor was reintroduced to the region in 1997, and as of 2014 nearly three dozen condors make the area their home. Mountain lions, though rarely seen by human eyes, roam throughout the Big Sur region. Raptors in the area include bald eagles and peregrine falcons.

Once thought to be extinct in California, a colony of 60 sea otters was discovered near Bixby Bridge in 1938. Today sea otters are frequently seen in the area, as well as sea lions, elephant seals and harbor seals. Orcas patrol the coast year-round, while other whale species are seasonal: humpback whales can be seen from April through December, blue whales from June through October, and gray whales from December through May. The abundance of seals does not go unnoticed by sharks, including the great white shark, which patrol the waters but will only be seen by very lucky visitors.

Climate

Along the coast the climate is moderate year-round, although further inland temperatures are significantly warmer in summer and cooler in winter. Thick, dense fog blankets the coast during the summer, and while it usually burns off during the day, it can occasionally linger and make travel along Highway 1 treacherous.

Touristinformation

• Big Sur Chamber of Commerce website

Get in

Big Sur is a remote area accessible only via Highway 1 (also known as the Pacific Coast Highway) or via the winding, narrow 25 mile long Nacimiento-Fergusson Road, accessible from Highway 101 and Jolon, California. Highway 1 winds through Big Sur flanked by the steep Santa Lucia Mountains to the east and the rocky Pacific Coast to the west. The easiest and most common way to get to Big Sur is by car, though some enthusiastic adventurers cycle along the highway. There are only four gas stations along the route and fuel is expensive, so fill your tank before entering the Big Sur region. The highway is prone to rock and mud slides which have been so severe in the past that the highway has sometimes closed for over a year. Construction can also cause delays or closures, so check California highway road conditions prior to setting out. The Nacimiento-Fergusson Road is the only alternative route.

From San Francisco take US-101 south to CA-156 west which merges with Highway 1 20 miles from MalPaso Canyon. Approximately 129 miles and 2-3 hour drive.

From Los Angeles take US-101 north and exit onto Highway 1 toward Morro Bay/Hearst Castle, about 45 miles south of San Carpóforo Canyon. Approximately 244 miles and 4-5 hour drive.

• SLO RTA provides service from Morro Bay as far north as San Simeon on route 15.

Get around

Highway 1 through Big Sur is a long, narrow, winding road, so those prone to car sickness may want to take medication prior to setting out. There is only one lane in each direction. Most of the road is very limited in width. Paved shoulders are narrow and may not exist in steep areas. There are no passing lanes. Given the many sharp turns, passing can be extremely dangerous. Driving in the dark, in fog, or in rainy conditions can be quite dangerous due to the risk of a collision or of straying off the highway. While the speed limit is 55 mph (90 km/h) unless otherwise posted, expect speeds of 35-45 mph for most of the route, and as slow as 15-20 mph on some of the sharpest curves, or due to congestion. If there are five or more cars following you, courtesy and California law require you to pull over at a safe point and allow them to pass. Use one of the many unpaved, wide pull outs along the route. This allows you and others to enjoy a safe drive.

Big Sur Village is a mile-long portion of the highway containing gas stations, roadside markets, lodges and restaurants, but services elsewhere in the region are very limited, and gas in Gorda can be as much as $7 per gallon. The unincorporated communities of Posts, Lucia, Plaskett, and Gorda are located south of Big Sur Village, but these settlements generally have little more than a single inn or restaurant available for travelers.

Bicycling along Highway 1 is popular, though extremely challenging given the narrow or non-existent shoulders, constant elevation changes, and precipitous cliffs. Cyclists will also be dealing with motorists who are likely distracted by the scenery, dealing with fog, or unaccustomed to sharing a narrow highway.

Stay safe

Highway 1 dangers

Highway 1 through Big Sur is a narrow, winding two-lane road which in many places was carved out of steep cliff faces. A sign on the highway south of Carmel depicts a curvy road with the text "Next 72 miles"!

In the right car, such as a grand tourer, driving Highway 1 can be a delightfully risky challenge. However, the highway requires your complete attention at all times to stay alive. Getting distracted for just a second can be fatal.

Caltrans provides guardrails only for the most dangerous sheer cliffs, where any deviation from the roadway means certain death.

Many sections of Highway 1 do not have guardrails separating the roadway and the cliffs, but only small earthen berms or ridges. Berms enable visitors to enjoy less obstructed views of Big Sur's gorgeous scenery. But if you allow your vehicle's tires to drift off the highway, the adjacent berm is unlikely to stop you from flying over the top and off the cliff on the other side. Numerous drivers have lost their lives that way.

Always check traffic conditions before you go. Try to avoid driving long distances after dark as fog and the many sharp turns can severely restrict your visibility. In the winter, sudden landslides can block the road entirely or cause major backups. For example, in May 2017, a major landslide south of Gorda closed the road to through traffic for many months. Construction can reduce the roadway to a single lane, controlled by traffic lights.

Go next

• Carmel - The northern boundary of Big Sur is the town of Carmel, located 20 miles from Big Sur Village. Carmel is a beautiful oceanside town that is home to the historic Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo, several large beaches, excellent restaurants and an abundance of upscale lodging. It borders the iconic Pebble Beach golf course and is the entry point to the 17-mile drive and its dramatic ocean views.
• San Simeon - Marking the southern end of the Big Sur region and lying 80 miles south of Big Sur Village, San Simeon is home to Hearst Castle, the impressive residence of the former media tycoon William Randolph Hearst, now managed as a state park with tours available daily. A massive colony of more than 20,000 elephant seals can be viewed onshore just north of town every winter.